Having read lots and lots of it, and loving the historical bits of Berlin- finding the cold war interesting, visiting the DMZ was a must-do for me in this trip. As I didn't travel alone, I had to make sure I didn't make a trip that was too boring for the others. So, I decided to do a half day trip to the JSA/DMZ and made a booking with USO/Kooridor. I had initially thought of booking with Seoul City Tours, but they are a lot more expensive compared to Kooridor (₩ 96,000 each) and lots of other travellers to the DMZ had recommended Kooridor.
The trip departs from Yongsan, an US army site near Samgakji Station which is on Line 6. The USO is only about 5-10 mins walk from the station (from exit 10)
In the USO
Our group was a pretty big one, the bus was full! And do book early if you intend to go. Not only do you need at least 48-72 hours before departure day to make a reservation, they book up quite quickly! I tried to make our reservations about almost a week prior to intended date, and they have 3 trips a day - the other 2 was already full. They do need at least 48-72 hours prior to departure bookings as security checks need to be done.
Visitor tag for the day
The trip starts off quite early at about 0730, with the first stop being at Dorasan Station - "Not the last station from the South, but the first towards the North". Simple but so hopeful for the future.
Dorasan Train Station
In 2000, North and South Korea made a joint declaration to connect the Gyeongul railroad line. Built in 2002, it is located in the civilian restoration line. It is not just a train station, but an aspiration for reunification of the Korean Peninsula. It is about 56km from Seoul Station in South Korea, 17km from Gaesong Station and about 205km from Pyeongyong in North Korea.
The next stop was Camp Bonifas where our ID checks are done on the bus before entering the area for debriefing prior to entering the Panmunjeom Area, which is also known as the Joint Security Area (JSA).
The officer that took us around the trip was pretty good and quite entertaining. Yes, there are quite a few rules regarding security around here and yes, you can feel the tension in the area. Despite appearing very peaceful, there's a slight fear that builds in you when you're here. Not only that, we could actually seen that we were being watched by the Northern side while we were there.
Panmunjeom
This area is only small, measuring up to about 800 square metres and we were there as guests of the United States Army - hence the regulations etc. We are not to point any things, not to take pictures of certain areas. No pictures to the left or right of the above, and if there's any concerns, we have to show them the pictures we've taken and if they're not allowed, they would be confiscated/deleted. I didn't really mind it - standing there after several minutes has made me quite paranoid about things.
The white building behind belongs to the North and the blue buildings are the offices that are divided between the North and South. Since the axe incident in 1976 in the area, the guards from the either side are not allowed to step over to the other side. "Sides" are defined by a row of 'bricks' lined at about the mid-ways in the building. No gates or wires, just this 2-3 inches tall of 'stones/bricks'. But no one dares cross it.
From there then we have to get back on the bus and are taken around the area in the bus. We didn't have a particularly long time in an area so everything was in a bit of a rush due to some security issues.
There is also an memorial plaque for the axe murder incident victims which happened in 1976. It started with the trimming of a poplar tree that was obstructing certain views for the military. However, it turned into a confrontation that led to the death of several officers.
The memorial plaque
The rounded base is the diameter of the original poplar tree trunk
This bridge could only be viewed by us from the bus, and was no longer in use. Named Bridge of No Return as once you've crossed to the other side, in the 1950s, you could no longer come back to the other side. I believe that at that time, prisoners of war were allowed to choose which side they would like to be in and that choice is permanent. Hence, the No Return in the name.
Bridge of No Return
The whole trip was quite overwhelming for me. There was no incident or anything to suggest that we were in danger or threatened, but yet just knowing that every move we make would be watched, and towards the end when we were leaving the JSA, seeing the presence of additional Northern guards, although just watching from afar, sent shivers up my spine.
After that, we proceeded to the DMZ Tunnel which was the 3rd tunnel discovered that was made by North Korea with intentions of entering the South. The amount of work, thoughts and trying to hide the motive of digging the tunnel is amazing. They covered the tunnel with a coating of coal and stated that the tunnel was made as they were digging for coal when it was discovered. Hhmmm..... Anyway, a bit of a work out getting into and out of the tunnel. And definitely not for the claustrophobic. Before going on the trip, I did think that the tunnel was the most amazing thing - but really, it was just a tunnel. Nowhere comparable to the JSA/Panmunjeom.
It was an amazing experience nevertheless and I would encourage anyone going to Seoul to make time for a half day trip.
Lunch time!
USO/Kooridor tours goes to a little restaurant in the area and you have choice of a meal - either bulgogi or bibimbap. I vote for the bibimbap.
And then it was back to Seoul and we just wanted something to sooth the tum tum before heading to the fish market.
Drinks menu @ Beans Bin
(there's a drink called ade.. LOL)
The recommended strawberry waffle at Beans Cafe was the absolute delight! There's something about strawberries in Seoul - they're superrrrr sweet and yummy! We bought a box a day and finished it everytime! But only from the stall in MyeongDong, outside the station on the main street. Oh so amazing! The other brands just weren't as good.
Made our way to the famous Noryanjin Fish Market for some early dinner.
Ticket machine
Quite easy to use and we did end up getting the Tmoney Card just because we were going on quite a few train rides during the day and of course, it was slightly cheaper than buying a ticket each time.
First stop exchange - Seoul Station, to
change lines to get to Noryanjin Station
Heaps of shellfish at the market
Massive crabs!!
It was quite a big market and there was plenty of seafood that I haven't seen before but communication was a problem.. They do speak some Mandarin which was great for us but still a little difficult with most of the vendors. Certain things look so interesting - but because we didn't know what it was, we didn't get them.
I was hoping for a market like the Sydney Fish Market, but this was quite different and honestly, I prefer the Sydney FM anytime.
So off we went to the Hwangje Restaurant located on the 1st floor of the fish market building (was recommended by trip advisor). It was jam-packed but they made exceptions for us tourist - which made us a little dubious of what's going on. Maybe we were going to be charged a bomb? Till today, who knows what the normal charges are, and what we were charged.
We had an abalone, some prawns and seasnail/scallop thing. Taste was just so-so, nothing exceptional. But then again, we didn't get the recommended steamed crabs and fried rice with crab roe. But the butter grilled abalone - also just alright. The only thing was that our clothes smelled so bad after the dinner that we had to air dry it at night.
Check out all the buses!!
@ Noryanjin Station
Massive UNIQLO x2 in MyeongDong
Somehow, we always end up at MyeongDong every night. Whether it's for more facial supplies shopping, or Beans Bin cafe or Starbucks.. we always end up here. And I love it!!
*MUST STAY IN MYEONG DONG NEXT TIME!!*
Fried potato chips
Favourite hang out spot
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